How To Identify A Powder Post Beetle Infestation - November 13, 2013

November 13, 2013

I spent an afternoon helping the Northville Farm Heritage Centre with identifying and isolating wooden artifacts infested with Powder Post Beetles.  I wrote about steps to take when dealing with an infestation and about infestation in general in the two previous posts so won't repeat that here.  This post has more pictures to help you search your own wooden artifacts.

Our objectives with the work at the farm centre was to:

• identify anything infected and remove it,
• place smaller artifacts in garbage bags to isolate them,
• place the smaller artifacts for a minimum of two weeks in a freezer,
• place larger artifacts that could safely be moved into a holding area,
• identify areas of significantly larger objects and structural infestation for future spraying.

We searched three buildings for the evidence of sawdust laying about or holes in the wooden artifacts.  Some of the holes look recent with lighter colours and sawdust others look older with darker colours and no sawdust.  These photographs show what we found for recent activity and what you can look for:

Barrel header with sawdust

Saw handle with holes and dust.

Butter churn heavily infested

With the older holes that usually have no sawdust treatment is still necessary since the larvae can survive for many years within the wood.  We bagged and froze the smaller artifacts as well and documented the larger ones for spraying in the spring.  Here is an example of what appears to be older non-active holes with no recent sawdust evident:

Brush with older holes.

Wheel, painted with older holes

We identified several areas in two of the buildings where spraying with Timbor should be done in the spring.  I wrote about spraying in a previous post and steps to be taken with infestation.  Timbor is safe to use and can be effective over a longer period of time to reduce the population of beetles.  Spraying is recommended in the spring around second or third week in June when the beetles are most active.  Fresh sawdust is the clear sign of beetle activity so cleaning up the sawdust shortly after spraying and monitoring for more will let you know if you need to re-spray. The farm centre has been doing this already for the last few years by spraying the structure of their buildings but now they can spray the larger, individual items we have seen that are infected.  Here are photographs of most of the artifacts we found with beetle infestation:

Most importantly, they must isolate all wooden artifacts as they come in. Smaller ones can be frozen for  two weeks; larger ones sprayed.  In both cases they should be isolated from the rest of their collection and only returned to the general collection when they have been treated.

One area had a large amount of sawdust on a barrel header on the main floor.  After removing it and searching for further evidence we came across a wooden butter churn that was heavily infested sitting on a shelf above.  The sawdust fell down between the shelf boards onto the barrel header below.

Conservation Tip:  It is critically important that all wooden artifacts brought in be inspected for infestation and if there is any evidence isolate them and treat them as soon as possible.  Isolation can be as simple as bagging or keeping them outside or in a building without exposed wood and cement floors.  Spraying is most effective when the beetles are active in the spring when they emerge from the wood for mating.  If you have had an infestation it is necessary to spray each spring over a period of years to reduce the population to a manageable number.  Regular inspection of your wood collection is necessary.  Remember that painting and varnish will not discourage them, they live in the wood and will bore their way to the surface.

Paper Artifacts Handling - General Information - November 2013

November 12, 2013

Paper Artifacts

As with all artifacts that come into the museum we examine each one carefully to determine the best way to proceed with cleaning, packaging, storage, and possible repair and display.  The following are some of the conditions paper artifacts are subject to which can be conserved usually under laboratory conditions:

1. stained by water, humidity or other liquids,
2. ripped, earmarked, 
3. missing pages, missing covers or in pieces, 
4. cracked or split spine, 
5. repaired with scotch tape, other tape or adhesives that is recent or has yellowed,
6. pest damage such as silverfish or book lice,
7. improperly mounted.

Each condition is carefully noted as a permanent record and appropriate action taken.  For community museums, only minimal treatment can be undertaken due to the costs involved.  That usually involves documenting, photographing, flattening minor rolls or curves, proper storing or packaging, some minor repairs with Japanese papers and paper adhesives if funding is available, and researching the history. 

For example, with earmarking such as corners folded or a part of a page folded back when stored or handled we resist the temptation to correct it by folding it back in place.  Attempting to correct it may cause further damage particularly if the paper is very fragile so is best left as is for now.  This type of condition can be corrected by engaging a paper conservator who will follow the correct procedures to do repairs such as applying humidification to a particular area or to the entire document to loosen the paper fibres, flattening the document, and drying it all under controlled conditions.  Paper artifacts that are moderately rolled or with moderately curved edges can be flattened by placing it between two larger pieces of thicker paper such as matting board and laying a large flat weight on top such as a piece of plywood of the appropriate size.  This does not always work if documents are severely distorted.  A paper conservator can help to determine if the humidification process mentioned above may be necessary.  Here is a photograph of a flattening in progress at the museum.

Large paper document being flattened.

It is possible to wash some paper under laboratory conditions to remove staining.  This is a labour intensive and often expensive process that is usually only done on very precious documents under highly controlled conditions.  Repairs can be done to replace pieces, fix cracks in spines, consolidate tears, loose pages or pieces.  Often Japanese papers of appropriate various thicknesses and colours are used for this purpose as is adhesives designed specifically for paper.  The papers are mostly used to stabilize the pages but in some cases can be colour matched to replace missing pieces.  Adhesives used in the past for attaching covers to books were sometimes a good source of food for pests; modern adhesives are designed to avoid this.  Modern adhesives are reversible, strong, and non-staining.  Examples are starch-based or methyl cellulose.  Stabilizing a loose or cracked spine on a book is a good preventive measure to avoid further tears or breaks.  A paper conservator can do this with near invisibility to the casual observer.

Precious paper artifacts should be packaged in acid free sleeves and labelled.  Another option is to use Mylar sleeves and acid free backing boards of the type that are used to store comic books.  These can often be obtained in local comic stores for a reasonable price.  Mylar is recommended due to its inert composition and acid free backing boards are important to reduce the chance of a paper artifact getting bent in storage or handling.  Mylar is also transparent which means it can be used to put a document in an exhibit and keep it protected.  Obviously this packaging is not the best option for all paper artifacts but should be done for those precious pieces.  The following photographs show two paper artifacts we recently packaged at the museum in acid free envelopes.  The accession number and archival number are both written on the outside of the envelope.  Cotton gloves are used for handling.

Cartoon booklet stored in acid free envelope.

1930 school book stored in acid free envelope.

References

CCI - Caring for paper artifacts  Canadian Conservation Institute - How to care for paper documents and newspaper clippings.
Asiarta Foundation - Works of art on paper conservation techniques - Paper conservation techniques
NEDCC - Repairing paper artifacts - NorthEast Document Conservation Center

Wooden Objects Pest Management Guidelines August, 2013

August, 2013

NOTE: These guidelines are specific to the Annapolis Valley, Nova Scotia CANADA and the result of a request from a local community museum.  Consult with a conservator in your area for treatment specific to your location.  Where chemical use is recommended follow MSDS (Material Safety Data Sheet) instructions for safe handling.

Pest infestation can be difficult to treat.  For example, Powder Post beetles can survive for years within the wood in larvae form and can only be adequately treated as they emerge from the wood.   However, Timbor is a relatively non-toxic chemical that will kill the beetles as they emerge.  It is suggested that the infested wood be sprayed regularly, perhaps yearly or if more evidence of beetle activity is observed.  The most critical step in controlling it is to carefully examine new objects as they come in and regularly inspect objects in your collection.  Wood products of all kinds are susceptible even if varnished or painted.   

The following are a general set of guidelines for dealing with this type of problem.  This information is a summary of this type of problem from available literature combined with information obtained from conservators and pest control officers I have contacted.  It is suggested that these steps should be followed in this order as objects come in. 

1) ISOLATE: all wooden objects that are brought in should be isolated from the rest of your collection until they are verified as free of infestation or have been treated.  Bag all the objects that are small enough to fit in bags.  Place larger objects in a tent or tarp big enough to sit it on and have it completely covered.  Infestation evidence will then be deposited in that space for observation.

2) EXAMINE: very carefully examine each object for these three things - holes, debris such as legs or other beetle body parts, frass (beetle excrement, a fine powder).  NOTE: this is not always followed by curators and other museum workers but is a critical step.

3) IDENTIFY: if you are NOT confidant that it is powder post beetle, bag the evidence and take it to the Agricultural Research Station in Kentville or to the Nova Scotia Museum in Halifax for identification.

4) TREAT: smaller objects with infestation can be bagged and placed in a freezer for a minimum of two weeks.  This would normally kill off most infestations and the object would then be safe to move to your collection area.  Larger objects with infestation can be sprayed with Timbor and kept in a tent with pest strips such as Home Defence Max from Canadian Tire for at least two months.  The strips are placed around the tent OR can be cut up and placed in plastic containers with holes in the sides at the bottom edges so the beetles can crawl inside.  WARNING: these strips are toxic - USE GLOVES, open and handle outside as much as possible, DO NOT ALLOW STRIPS TO TOUCH THE OBJECT.  Placing them in plastic containers is a way to reduce contact with the chemicals in the strips.  These strips can be used in cabinets as well but follow the handling rules.

5) OBSERVE: set up a schedule to examine all your wooden objects at least every 6 months for evidence of infestation and if found, treat immediately.

REFERENCES
http://www.nature.nps.gov/biology/ipm/manual/museum.cfm    general guidelines for museums – all pests.
http://www.cci-icc.gc.ca/caringfor-prendresoindes/articles/10agents/chap06_table2_lg_e.pdf     a list of most common pests and how to identify them.

Powder Post Beetles - July, 2013

July, 2013

A local museum contacted me recently about Powder Post beetle infestation that they had been dealing with for a few years.  They have several older wooden buildings with lots of small and large wooden objects housed within.  They have been spraying every year with a product called Tim-Bor.  The results have been encouraging with much less infestation over time but not yet completely solved.  These beetles bore into wood and deposit eggs.  When the eggs hatch the larvae eat their way out of the wood, mate in the spring and the cycle starts again.  They had asked me about the best way to deal with new objects coming into the museum and any existing objects that may be infested.

How do you know you have a beetle infestation?  Here are a few photographs of holes in wooden objects and a photograph of the dust which is a combination of sawdust and frass (insect excrement).   

Beetle holes - mallets

Beetle holes - pulley

Beetle dust - stairwell

Beetle dust - barrel base

There are several kinds of beetles that exhibit the same characteristics that can be treated the same way.  Spraying with a boron based product such as Tim-Bor, Borasol, or Ambush every year for several years will reduce the population and keep it under control.  Watch for beetle activity evidence such as the dust as shown in the photographs every year usually in summer or late spring.  Spray all the wooden areas (walls, stairwells, doors) and the larger objects.  These products are easily handled but require basic handling equipment to apply.  Refer to the safety data sheet for any of these products first before usage.

Any wooden objects of a small size can be treated by depositing them in a freezer for a minimum of two weeks.  Such things as wooden mallets, pulleys, wooden handled tools, and the like which can fit in the freezer are good candidates.  Wooden wagon wheels, carts, poles, and the like are usually too big so should be handled differently.  Maintaining a low temperature over two weeks will kill off any of the eggs, larvae, or beetles present in the wood.  There is some variance but typically, freezers maintain a temperature of around -18C.  Since beetles are active in the spring and lie dormant over the winter they are able to handle fluctuation in temperatures but not a sustained cold temperature.  Our winters in Nova Scotia have fluctuating temperatures between freezing and thawing so our beetles have adapted to that environment.  After two weeks you can put the objects back into the collection where appropriate.



Beetle holes - wheel

For larger objects such as the wagon wheel shown in this photograph I suggest spraying them every spring around middle of June for Nova Scotia which is their optimal time for reproduction.  They tend to be active, moving toward sunlight at that time.  Around this time you should see evidence of their activity - either bore holes or dust.  Sometimes the bore holes may not be visible until the spring because the object has been sanded and painted. 

All new wooden objects coming to museums should be carefully examined for evidence of pests.  If so, they should be bagged and isolated for a period of time to determine if they are actively infested.  Bagging will allow for any evidence of activity to be observed.  If they can be stored in a non-wooden environment for a time this would be best.  If they are small they can be put straight into a freezer for two weeks.  Larger objects with bore holes should be sprayed and examined in late spring or early summer for evidence of beetle activity.

Conservation Tip

With respect to preventive care - objects in collections should be examined as a minimum at least twice per year.  Wooden, textile, paper or leather objects for pests and mold; metal objects for tarnish and rust.  Identifying problems as soon as possible can prevent more serious infestation or damage that would be more difficult to treat if left undiscovered.  Careful examination will then determine what treatment is necessary, the costs in terms of materials and time, and then a plan to implement the treatment. 



Some New Objects Came In - June 25 2013 (Continued)

July 2, 2013

Alcohol Jug - Luther

Alcohol Jug - Proverb

Perhaps the most important part of historical objects coming in the museum from the public as donations are the stories that accompany the objects.  Last week I wrote about the objects and briefly described two of them with photos.  This week I have two more from the same group that are of particular interest.  The person who brought them in shared what information he had on his objects.  This is especially exciting and important because these stories are what helps us to date them, understand how they were used, which family members used them, and any repairs done to them.

These objects are alcohol jugs with sayings inscribed in German on the front and raised images such as flowers and birds in many locations.  In both cases the handles on the back are broken with missing pieces.  One of them has a quote from Martin Luther, the other a German Proverb.  One of them shows many cracks with obvious repairs and yellowish-brown staining.  The staining is on or near the cracks so represents an excessive amount of adhesive used to do repairs.
 

There are several interesting aspects to these examples:

1. the owner said he had played with these as a child; 
2. the quotation on the front in German; and
3. the conservation possibilities. 

Since we know the age of the donor (in his 90's) we can date the jug to at least his childhood.  The origin is unknown.  I am continuing research on determining the maker and date of these objects.  If any of you know more about these please leave a comment below.

The quotation on one jug is attributed to Martin Luther (1483 - 1546) as follows:

"He who loves not wine, women, and song remains a fool his whole life long."

On the other jug the quotation is a German proverb:

"Happy is the one who forgets that which cannot be changed." 

The possibility for conservation on the jug with the Martin Luther quotation is that the adhesive could be removed, the object disassembled, the pieces cleaned and reattached with conservation grade adhesive.  The missing handles can also be remade (molded), painted with exact colour match, and attached.  The end result would be a "like new" object.  Repairs undertaken by conservators are done ethically in such a way that the original aspects of the object are restored but that the repairs will be obvious under intensive observation such as a magnifying glass or a microscope.  It is also critically important that any repairs be easily reversed.  The entire repair process would be documented in detail with photographs at every stage and becomes part of the historical record of the object.  This is a labour intensive process and would usually only be attempted on objects of special historical significance due to the cost involved.  In our case I would recommend that it be left as is since the repairs represent an important aspect of the history of the object.

Information Tip:

More information is available on novamuse.ca by searching on accession number 2013.014.001 or 2013.014.002.  Just type in or cut and paste the accession number in the search box on the upper right of the page and press enter to bring up more information.  There is a detailed description plus measurements, condition information, some history on the original owner, and conservation work.



Some New Objects Came In - June 25 2013

June 25, 2013

Someone came in this week with some historical objects from home to donate to the museum.  This is a regular occurrence as people clear out the attic or decide that it is time to make some of their family artifacts available for others to enjoy.  This is one of the joys of working in a museum....you never really know what may come walking in the door.  There are often pleasant surprises that can be of great interest to the public.  Here is what was brought in:

• a child's chair from the Victorian era (1837 to 1901) - possibly late 1800's,
• a bone handled straight razor in its box without a top,
• a fully functional mechanical pencil with lead refill - possibly early 1900's,
• a 1961 book of cartoons from the Halifax daily newspaper of the time in mint condition,
• a school reader from the 1930's with student notes, underlining, and other scribbles,
• a military canteen from the 1950s in its carrying case,
• a brass book mark with a colourful butterfly at one end,
• a silver plated 1880's spoon warmer,
• two tall, ceramic alcohol jugs with different sayings in German.

Tasked with doing conservation work on these objects I can say that very, very little needs to be done.  I generally concentrate on cleaning, polishing, very minor repairs, packaging, storage, photographing and database updates (www.novamuse.ca).  In all cases these were clean meaning that I did not have to brush off any dirt or wipe off dust.  They are all showing some of what could be called normal wear and tear which is part of the objects' history and thus would need no remediation.

Victorian Era child's chair.

An example is the child's chair which is very solid and sturdy but shows some rips, minor staining, and loose threads in the seat cover.  It has been refinished with a varnish and the seat cover may have been replaced.  With the under seat strapping and frame in very good condition I can see no reason to do any changes.  Normally, I would recommend that wood not be refinished, the natural patina is often best left as is.  Antique TV shows often point out that wooden objects loose value when refinished.  The natural wear and patina reflect the use of the object and from conservator's point of view is a valuable reflection of the history of the object.  This chair shows the craftsmanship of the era and is a testament to the maker's skills and pride in producing high quality goods.

Late 1800's spoon warmer.

Another example is silver plated spoon warmer which is showing the usual black spotting and scratches from polishing or wear.  Since it is silver plated there is very little reason to try polishing it further since there is little or no silver left in these areas.  This object was used to keep spoons warm when boiling water was poured inside and a small lid was closed to keep the spoons warm.  This practice was popular in some circles in the 1800's but died out at the turn of the last century.

Roundhouse Objects Conservation June 18 2013

June 18, 2013

As conservation work on the Railway Roundhouse objects nears completion it was time to prepare the objects for storage.  The goal of proper storage is to:

•  stabilise the objects so they have no chance of rolling around and coming in contact with each other,
•  package them so that they will have minimal or no possibility of interaction with anything which may affect their condition (an example is off-gassing or other chemicals),
•  package them so that they can be moved short distances such as from on-site storage to exhibit or work rooms,
• label each box or storage container with the contents to facilitate ease of access.

With a bit of research and suggestions by the Senior Conservator, Chris Lavergne, at Nova Scotia Museums a product called ethafoam is recommended and most widely used in conservation.  It is strong, yet flexible and stable.  Here is a link to more information from a US supplier http://www.conservationresources.com/Main/section_10/section10_16.htm

It would be used by sizing it to fit in boxes and carved out to the shape of the object and fitted to reduce the chance of rolling around and getting damaged.  However, from a local supplier the price ranges from $70 to $90 per sheet of 2 feet by 4 feet and 3 to 4 inches thick.  This is out of the range of the budget for the museum at this time.  I suggested an alternative of using acid free paper scrunched up and wrapped around each object in a manner that would normally be done by moving companies when transporting household goods long distances.  The museum has a large supply of acid free paper that was donated some years ago.  I also suggested that we store the glass and ceramics in a separate box from the metals.  These alternatives were accepted by the curator.

Acid free paper on all sides, between objects, around objects

Exterior list of contents for ease of access

I started each box with a layer of scrunched up paper across the bottom and around the sides.  A flat layer of acid free paper separates each layer of objects.  Each object is carefully and completely wrapped up and then placed in the box with scrunched up paper between each object.  Although this is not an ideal solution it does fit the budget and the need.

Three "banker style" boxes were sufficient for this collection of nearly 40 objects.  However, the larger objects such as locomotive wrenches, large lamp on a pole, and the oil can are left unwrapped and unboxed and will simply be stored "as is" due to their size.